MOLD: Residential contruction’s 4 letter word

Moisture that created mold under the insulation was discovered during our friend’s recent renovation.

A friend of ours called me over the weekend after they found mold in the home they have been living in for five years.  She was very concerned for the health of her family, and rightly so.  In past blogs I have covered the topic of moisture on windows and in attics, but what happens if the siding installer has not detailed the windows and door properly when installing flashings and weather seals. It appears that after some hail damage repairs a few years ago, due to improper siding details, moisture has been finding its way into the wall cavity in the basement below a north facing door.

     We talked about the repair process.  Step 1.: Locate the source of the moisture and repair the siding to prevent further moisture infiltration.  Step 2.: Dry up the wall cavity. Step 3.: Clean the area affected by mold.  This is where some care and attention should be paid.  There is a health risk during the clean up process, so I have included a terrific article posted on the CMHC website on the issue of MOLD.

Molds are part of a group of microorganisms called fungi that also include mushrooms and yeasts. Molds are familiar to most people as food spoilers on items such as bread or fruit. Molds are nature’s decomposers in the food chain. If allowed to grow inside your house, mold can be a problem.

Mold Problems

Mold can cause:

• unsightly stains;
• damage to paints, wood, drywall, ceiling tiles and fabrics;
• damage to personal items;
• allergies; and
• illness.

Some Symptoms

• discolouration on surfaces such as walls, ceilings, or furnishings
• stains on carpets
• mold on drapes and backs of furniture
• stains on personal items close to affected areas such as storage boxes and clothing
• musty smells
• rotting wood

Prevention

Mold requires high humidity levels to grow. Some molds require condensation to start growing.  To avoid most mold problems, keep materials dry.  If mold is present, clean the affected area as soon as possible, and identify the source of moisture that allowed the mold to grow in that location.

Clean-up Methods

You can clean small areas of mold yourself using an unscented detergent and water. The mold area is considered “small” if there are fewer than three patches, each patch smaller than one (1) square meter. If you have more than three patches or the areas are larger, you need a trained professional to assess your house. You may also need a trained contractor to clean extensive areas of mold.

When cleaning:

• use household rubber gloves;
• use a mask, rated N95, capable of filtering fine particles;
• use protective glasses;
• rinse well with a clean, wet rag;
• dry.

Moldy ceiling tiles and carpets should be removed and discarded. Drywall that remains stained after cleaning with detergent and water may need to be removed. Try washing fabrics. If the mold odour or stain persists, discard.  The proper cleaning procedure involves removing the mold. Chemicals, such as bleach and fungicides are not recommended. It is important to remove all mold residues as they can cause allergies or illness.

Painting Walls, Ceilings or Floors; Advice from CMHC

Painting is not the chore it used to be. A professional look is now easier to achieve. Whatever your project, talk to the paint experts where you purchase your paint. They are a valuable resource.  If you are having a hard time visualizing the colour, inexpensive computer software programs can allow you to try out different colours. Or, there may be a decorating service where you buy your paint.

Selecting paints

There are two main types of paint depending on the thinners and binders used; water-based (or latex) and oil-based (or alkyd).

Water-based paints use water as a thinner. They are often called latex paints even though they don’t use real latex, since rubber is not used as a binder any more. Today synthetic latexes are used, most commonly acrylic or polyvinyl acetate. Paints with a high acrylic content tend to have a tougher skin and can perform almost as well as oil-based paints. Latex paints can be easily cleaned up with soap and water.

Oil-based paints use a solvent thinner. Despite the name, oil-based paints are usually not made with oil. Instead, most use polyester resins, called alkyds. Although alkyds may be more durable and achieve a higher gloss finish, they are usually a less healthy choice than latex. Alkyd paints require mineral spirits for cleaning up.

Because paints are applied wet, and because they cover such a large area, paints can create a significant health problem during a renovation project. The problem is mainly caused by alkyd or solvent-based paints. They give off a number of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) as the solvent evaporates after painting.  These VOCs can be a strong irritant and can add to air pollution. Once the paint has completely dried and formed a tough skin, the emission levels drop. However, some paints can emit odours at low levels for a long time.  Exposure to VOCs varies from person to person. Effects include coughing, headaches, dizziness, or more serious conditions. It is especially important for respiratory sufferers, those with allergies, asthma, and households with young children or pregnant women to avoid paints with VOCs.

Comparing the VOCs of one paint to another is not an easy task. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are helpful, but manufacturers don’t have to list components which make up one per cent or less of their product’s weight. This means that some toxic components may not show up on the MSDS. The only sure way to know what the paint contains is by asking the manufacturer to list trace compounds.  There are some paints on the market that are solvent and VOC free. Look for the key words: Low VOC, or better yet. No VOC.

Painting myth

Contrary to popular belief, you can paint over oil or alkyd paint with latex paint.  To do so the walls should be cleaned, painted with a super adherent acrylic primer, then latex paint can be applied.To test if the paint on the walls is oil or alkyd some stores carry inexpensive test kits, or you can use methyl hydrate (gas line anti-freeze) or non acetone based nail polish remover.  Apply a small quantity of one of these products to a pad and rub vigorously on the painted surface. If the surface remains shiny it is oil/alkyd; if the paint is stripped it is latex.

Types of paint

It can be confusing when selecting the sheen of paint you want since the term used for the sheen varies by manufacturer.

Low-sheen (low-gloss) paints have none to little observable sheen. The amount varies slightly by manufacturer. Low-sheen paints can be called: flat, matt, eggshell, satin and velvet.

Higher sheen paints are semi-gloss, gloss and enamel. They have the most visible shine to them.

Low-sheen paints can be washed, but with care, higher sheen paints are the most washable and have the most durable finishes.

Most people select semi-gloss or high-gloss paints for rooms with high moisture levels such as kitchens and bathrooms, and high traffic areas such as main stairways and halls. Most people prefer to use semi-gloss or high-gloss paint on windows, trim and doors.

Bedrooms, dining and living rooms are more commonly painted with lower sheen paints.

Years ago, enamel meant oil-based paints.Today the term enamel can also mean durable latex paint.

Sealers are primarily used on new wood or masonry surfaces. They seal the surface of the material, forming a base coat which keeps the topcoat from being absorbed unevenly. They can be used to encapsulate materials to seal in gases thus preventing them from offgassing.

Primers are used to make the substrate more uniform, and to create a tight bond between the topcoat and the surface to be painted.

Cementious or masonry paints are used on concrete walls and floors.

Ceiling paints are designed not to drip.

Melamine paints are used for cabinets and shelves, and are very durable and washable.

Choosing paint by the brand is not enough. Many brand manufacturers make higher and lower quality lines of paint. As you move up in quality so does the price. Each grade is usually a few dollars more expensive than the previous grade. Avoid mixing the brands by using the primer of one brand with the finish paint of another. Paint will adhere better if you use the same brand for both applications.

If you buy all the paint you need at one time you have a better chance of getting a uniform colour.

Brushes and other tools

Ensure the rollers and paint brushes you buy are rated for the type of paint you are using. Better quality brushes help ensure that the paint strokes are less visible.

Estimating how much paint you will need

Measure the height and width of each wall to be painted then multiply to obtain the square footage.  For rooms with lots of windows and doors deduct the square footage of the windows and doors.  A 4-litre (1 gallon) pail of paint will usually cover 37 square metres (400 square feet).  When calculating how much paint to buy, check how well it is expected to cover the surface to be painted. This is called hiding quality. Painting over very dark colours may require using primer as the first coat or more coats of paint.  Having the primer tinted the same colour as the finish coat can provide better hiding qualities.  Latex based paints should not be stored for extended periods of time as they can go bad. When buying paint look for the most current date of manufacture on the container.

Getting ready

Preparation is the most important and most time consuming part of painting. Usually at least 80 per cent of the time spent on a painting project is spent getting ready and cleaning up.

1. Assess the surface that requires painting for needed repairs. Popped nails in the drywall or wallboard can be corrected by screwing a new screw into the stud either two inches above or below the popped nail. The popped nail can then be nailed in and the holes filled with wallboard or spackling compound. Make the patch on the hole as smooth as possible to minimize sanding. Wear a mask while sanding using no. 100 or no. 120 grit sandpaper if using wall repair compound and no. 220 grit for spackling compound.
2. For larger holes the compound may need to be applied in layers. Each layer should dry before the next one is applied. To help the compound bond to the drywall, apply a layer of glass fibre (mesh) tape. It comes in a roll similar to cellophane tape.
3. Vacuum the whole room and damp mop the floor if possible. Wash the surface to be painted with mild detergent and water. If there are grease marks on the walls, or if someone in the household smokes, you may first need to clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). If using TSP, be aware that it is not a benign product, and should only be used while wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse well with clean water.
4. For very textured walls or ceilings, vacuuming may be the only pre-cleaning option.

Painting new drywall or wood

Previously unpainted drywall, or plaster must be primed. Previously unpainted wood can be stained, painted or urethaned.

Special considerations

Lead in paint

Lead in interior paint was taken off the market in 1979. Paint in houses or apartments built before that date almost certainly contain small amounts of lead paint.  Exposure to large amounts of lead can cause serious illness. Infants and children are especially vulnerable to lead. However, lead paint is not generally a problem if it is not flaking, peeling or blistering.To check if the walls contain lead, you can obtain a lead paint test kit at most major hardware and some health food stores.  Sanding or heat stripping lead paint requires safety precautions, including protective clothing, a mask, goggles and gloves. Lead paint in the form of sanded particles are a health hazard.  Pregnant women and children should never be exposed to dust or fumes caused during lead paint removal.  For further information on lead, order the free booklet Lead In Your Home from CMHC.

Covering water stains, marks and knot holes

Water stains on ceilings, wax crayon marks on walls and previously unpainted knot holes will bleed through most water based paints. A special stain blocking sealer should first be applied sparingly on the knots, stains or marks before applying the paint. For these special situations you may need to use shellac, alkyd or a polyvinyl acetate primer.

These products have an odour and therefore should be used only on the affected areas. When using these products ventilate well, preferably by running a fan. Place the fan in an open window and have the fan facing out.

Severely damaged walls

If walls are badly damaged, it may be quicker and cheaper to install an additional layer of new drywall.

Peeling paint

Peeling is usually a result of moisture under the paint, or of using the wrong type of paint. If moisture is the cause, it must first be corrected, then the surface can be scraped and sanded before painting.

Covering mold and water stains

Mold which appears as dark spots on the painted surface must be washed with soap and water, rinsed and dried before repainting. The cause of the moisture which resulted in mold, if not corrected, will allow the mold to come back.

Painting tips

• Do not excessively thin paints as this decreases their wear resistance and washability.
• If you use solvents of any kind, store the used solvents in an old paint container with a seal and take them to the toxic waste centre in your community. Do not pour solvents down the drain.
• Always paint with a window open and when the temperature is above 10°C (50°F).
• You can remove solvent based paint from your skin by using vegetable oil.
• Smooth evenly painted walls are more readily achievable if you:
  1. Sand really well after patching.
  2. Use a roller which you have taken a lint brush to, before using.
  3. Use a roller designated for the type of paint you are using.
  4. Clean the surface to be painted thoroughly after sanding.

Housing starts up more than expected in March

Postmedia News

OTTAWA — Housing starts were up more than expected in March, Canada Mortgage and Housing Corp. said Wednesday.  The federal agency said the annual rate of new construction on housing units was 215,600 last month, up 10,300, or five per cent, from the month before.  That beat the median estimate of 200,000 from economists polled by Bloomberg.

“The upward movement in March was largely due to an increase in multiple starts, particularly in Ontario and the Prairies,” CMHC deputy chief economist Mathieu Laberge said in a statement. “This was partly offset by a decrease in multiple starts in British Columbia and Quebec, while single-detached starts decreased marginally countrywide.”

In urban areas, housing starts were up 4.2 per cent to a rate of 192,100. That included a decline of 2.4 per cent in the category of single-family homes, but a gain of 8.3 per cent for multiple-housing units.  In rural areas, housing starts were estimated at an annual rate of 23,500, up 11.9 per cent from February.  “Although we expect starts to soften in due course, the latest figures suggests that, for time being, the housing sector still has a considerable amount of energy, aided by low financing costs,” said Peter Buchanan, economist with CIBC World Markets.

Calgary MLS growth better than average

By Mario Toneguzzi, Calgary Herald

CALGARY — Year-over-year MLS sales growth in Calgary exceeded the Canadian average last month, the Canadian Real Estate Association said Thursday.  The organization said MLS sales of 2,113 units in Calgary was up 10 per cent from a year earlier, while Alberta sales of 4,476 units grew 13.5 per cent from 2011. Sales nationally rose by 8.6 per cent, compared with February 2011, and by 1.4 per cent over January.

“The resale market in Calgary continues to gain some momentum as we approach the spring and summer seasons,” said Richard Cho, of Calgary for Canada Mortgage and Housing Corp.  “With economic conditions improving and mortgage rates at favourable levels, prospective buyers have been active in the market.”

The average MLS sale price last month rose by 1.2 per cent, to $405,687, in Calgary and by 2.2 per cent, to $359,721, across Alberta.  Douglas Porter, deputy chief economist with BMO Capital Markets, said the Canadian housing market remains buoyant, “with an unseasonably mild winter likely adding some further juice to the mix.”

According to the Calgary Real Estate Board, MLS sales in Calgary so far this month are up 1.6 per cent compared with the same time period a year ago to 887 transactions and the average sale price has risen by 2.14 per cent to $415,093.  Ottawa-based CREA said about half of local markets recorded an increase in activity led by Calgary, Toronto and Montreal.

Measuring Humidity in Your Home

Straight Facts About Humidity

Many of our customers ask about humidity in their home.  Problems may occur when there is too little or too much moisture in the environment you live in.  Too much can lead to health problems, and mold/mildew accumulation in your home and potentially cause damage due to rot.  Too little can cause natural materials (wood products) to shrink and distort, causing cracks and squeaks in the home.  We found this article from the CMHC website that is very useful;

Humidity is the amount of moisture or water vapour in the air. You, your family, and your pets produce moisture when you breathe or perspire. Even your indoor plants produce moisture. We add water vapour to indoor air through routine household activities: cooking, showering, bathing, doing laundry, and dishwashing. More moisture can enter your home from the surrounding soil through a basement or crawl space.

When is Humidity a Problem?

We need humidity for our comfort and health. But too much or too little humidity can produce a host of difficulties for householders. Some of the problems are no more than nuisances; others could be far more serious. Many are familiar to Canadians. They often occur during the heating season when our windows are closed, and indoor air circulation and ventilation are reduced.

Diagnosing the Humidity Problem

Instead of guessing whether or not you have a humidity problem inside your house, why not find out for sure?

A small, inexpensive and easy-to-use instrument called a hygrometer (sometimes referred to as a humidity sensor or relative humidity indicator) can measure the humidity level in your house and confirm whether the house has too much or too little humidity. Once you know for sure, you can decide whether any action is required and, if so, what action.

Relative Humidity

Humidity is normally measured as relative humidity (RH). RH is a percentage that indicates the amount of moisture in the air relative to the maximum amount the air can hold at that temperature. For instance, when air at a given temperature contains all the water vapour it can hold at that temperature, it has a RH of 100 per cent. If the humidity exceeds 100 per cent, moisture will begin to condense from the air. If the air contains only half the water it can hold at that temperature, the RH is 50 per cent.

Warm air can hold more moisture than cool air, so that the RH of a sample of air will change as the temperature changes, even though the actual amount of moisture in the sample air does not. For example, as a sample of air cools the RH rises.

Humidity: How Much Is Too Much, How Much is Too Little?

Experts have developed rules of thumb to help homeowners make decisions regarding humidity levels in their house. The limits should be used as guides only. Acceptable or comfortable humidity levels will actually vary from season to season, from house to house, and even between rooms in the same house.

Rules of Thumb

To prevent window condensation during the heating season, the recommended indoor RH is 30 per cent to 50 per cent. When it is below -10°C (14°F) outdoors, recommended indoor RH is 30 per cent.

Taking Action

Humidity can be controlled. If the relative humidity in your home is too high, you can reduce it; if it is too low, you can increase it.

In summer, you can reduce house humidity levels by the use of a dehumidifier (see  Choosing a Dehumidifier) or by running an air conditioner.

In winter, a house that is too wet usually has some high moisture sources (for example, a damp basement, roof leaks, many plants). Deal with these problems first. If high humidity persists, you may need to make simple changes in your family’s habits, such as remembering to open or close doors or windows. Or, you can install equipment, such as exhaust fans in bathrooms or a heat recovery ventilator (HRV), to remove excess humidity.

Very low indoor RH levels in the winter may result from cold, dry air leaking in from outside. In this case, sealing up the house by weather-stripping and caulking will improve humidity conditions indoors and may reduce your heating bills at the same time.

If low humidity problems persist, despite air-tightening the house, consider the use of a humidifier. Humidifiers — both stand-alone humidifiers and humidifiers attached to your furnace — will increase indoor RH levels. But if they are not installed, used and maintained properly, they can also be sources of excess moisture and mold in your home.

Final Analysis

Humidity levels in your home can be too high or too low. In either case, problems can result.

A hygrometer can provide the information you need to determine whether you have a humidity problem — but it must be accurate to be useful.

If you have a humidity problem, it can usually be controlled.

Gold Seal Commits to Built Green Platinum for 2012

For 2012, Gold Seal Homes will register every home we build with the Built Green program at the Platinum level.  What does this mean for our consumers?  They will be assured of the highest level of energy efficiency, comfort and health of any builder in our area.  For more information on Built green or the Platinum checklist requirements view the link below:

Why Built Green?

Efficient and Affordable

• You can save up to 10% on your CMHC mortgage as a new home buyer. For more information, visit the CHMC website.
• Buying an energy-efficient home or making energy-saving renovations can offer big savings in terms of operating costs.¹

An Environmental Solution

• Since 2002, Built Green Canada has built homes that have saved 50% of energy usage and reduced over 100,000 tons of CO₂ emissions;²
• Built Green Canada has saved over 5 Million liters of water since 2002.³

Sustainable and Durable

• A BUILT GREEN® certified home is guaranteed to last with minimal impact on the environment.

Improved Comfort and Health

• Improved indoor air quality and humidity control;
• A healthy, clean, quiet indoor environment.

BUILT GREEN® Checklist

The Built Green checklist is a list of “green” criteria. It includes an energy efficiency requirement, and a menu of options in categories, addressing a range of “green” items from which the builder can select to meet the Bronze, Silver, Gold and Platinum achievement levels.

Certification Levels

Built Green Canada recognizes its homes based on the criteria of the checklist described above, which will categorize its members into 4 levels of Green achievement: Bronze, Silver, Gold and Platinum.
Built Green supports the use of lumber and gives a significant number of points for lumber use. Only products that have been submitted for verification can be approved, and are then certified by Built Green Canada. To view a selection of products within the checklist categories below, view our Product Catalogue.

¹This is dependent upon the home owner taking responsibility for their energy consumption; following instructions on how to use their furnace correctly; changing their furnace filter regularly; and ensuring that all other operational systems or maintained regularly.

²These numbers are based on an aggregate of homes built between 2007 and 2010 in Alberta.

³These numbers are also based on the same aggregate of homes built between 2007 and 2010 in Alberta.

High demand for Calgary condo project

Tribeca half sold after VIP sales event

By Mario Toneguzzi, Calgary Herald

CALGARY — Here’s another sign of the rejuvenation of Calgary’s new residential condominium market.

Bucci Living sold half of the units at Tribeca, a low-rise condominium development in the southwest Mission neighborhoods, on its first day of sales and before the development has officially launched to the public, after receiving twice the target number of expected registrants for a recent VIP pre-sale event.  The company said the “huge” interest in the development is because of the location in the popular Mission area.

“Tribeca is the first of a number of new condo projects set to launch in Calgary in 2012, an indicator that the condo market is at the start of a growth cycle,” it said.  Tribeca is a four-storey wood frame building, with 82 condos. The development offers a variety of living spaces including one-bedroom, one-bedroom plus den, two-bedroom, two-bedroom plus den and three-bedroom condominiums, ranging in size from 537 square feet to 1,064 square feet. Prices range from $225,000 to $520,000.  “We knew that Tribeca’s affordable prices and great location would appeal to buyers, but demand has more than exceeded our expectations,” said Mike Bucci, vice-vice-president Bucci. “The Calgary market is on the rise right now and Tribeca is a great example of that growth.”

Tribeca will officially launch to the public on Saturday at noon. The Sales Centre is located at 1905 4th St. S.W. Calvin Buss, president of Buss Marketing which works with many city condo projects, said there will be 14 residential condo towers under construction this year in Calgary inner-city neighborhoods’.  According to Canada Mortgage and Housing Corp., apartment starts in the Calgary census metropolitan area amounted to 2,106 units in 2011, up 56 per cent from the 1,349 started in 2010.

“New construction in the condo market has been subdued in the last couple of years as builders were working through elevated inventories,” said Richard Cho, senior market analyst in Calgary for the CMHC. “Towards the end of the 2011, however, we started to see a shift in activity with more condominium projects breaking ground and this is expected to continue in 2012.

“Condominium units appeal to many young buyers as well as homeowners who are looking to downsize. Many of the new projects that are proposed or have started construction are in vibrant areas and close to many amenities. Not only has demand improved, but the supply of new condominium units on the market has also declined paving the way for more condominium projects.”

CMHC Report – State of Housing in Canada

Housing-related spending accounts for more than 20 per cent of Canada’s Gross Domestic Product, contributing     about $330 billion to the Canadian economy in 2010 — up 7.1 per cent from $308 billion in 2009. This and other key findings are in the ninth annual Canadian Housing Observer, released today by Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC).

“The Observer is unique in its in-depth review of housing conditions and trends, including developments — both domestic and international — that influence housing finance and housing market developments in Canada,” said Karen Kinsley, President of CMHC. “The Observer’s data provides insight into Canadian residential mortgage practices and housing market trends, while highlighting the importance of housing in this country.”  The 2011 Observer looks at other important housing data including:

• The anticipated growth in the influence of seniors on the housing market in the future as their share of the population rises from about 14 per cent  to almost 24 per cent by 2036;
• How urban core housing need improved between 2002 and 2008 as 87 per cent of urban Canadian households either had, or could afford, acceptable housing in 2008;
• How low interest rates, coupled with a small inventory of existing homes for sale, helped push the average MLS price up by 5.8 per cent in 2010 to $339,042; and
• How condominiums accounted for one-third of all housing starts in major Canadian urban centres in 2010, compared with 29 per cent in 2009.

Online, users can access a broad range of statistical information on housing conditions from national, regional and local perspectives. New this year is the launch of additional online     interactive tables featuring housing data at the local level for more than 100 selected municipalities. The online publication and data are available at www.cmhc.ca/observer. Please refer to the attached table for a sample of the wide range of key national housing data available in the Observer.

As Canada’s national housing agency, CMHC draws on more than 65 years of experience to help Canadians access a variety of quality, environmentally sustainable and affordable housing solutions. CMHC also provides reliable, impartial and up-to-date housing market reports, analysis and knowledge to support and assist consumers and the housing industry in making informed decisions.

Contributed By Arnie Gess (www.AlbertaHomeOwner.com)

Housing starts expectations positive for Calgary region

By Mario Toneguzzi, Calgary Herald

CALGARY — Expectations for futurehousing starts in the Calgary region are positive, according to the Conference Board of Canada.

The board reported Friday that the Calgary census metropolitan area can expect a positiveclimate for the homebuilding industry in both the short and long term.  The board said the seasonally-adjusted annual rate for housing starts in the Calgary CMA in September was 8,534 units, up slightly from 8,449 a year ago.  Short-termexpectations are based on residential permits data.  Long-termexpectations are based on demographic requirements.  The boardsaid seven CMAs in Canada have negative short- and long-term expectations — themost since February.  Only 10 of 27 CMAs have positive short-term expectations across the country.

Grant Mortgage Solutions Inc O/A Grant Mortgage Solutions

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CMHC: Renovating for Energy Savings – Additions

Special from CMHC

By Mark Salerno

Make your home’s additions more energy-efficient

Common types of additions include older homes with large covered porches that have been closed in to create additional living space, upper floor dormers, simple one-room additions, garages or carports that have been converted to living space and sunrooms or solariums.

Additions can be heated by electric baseboards, a direct-vent gas-fired baseboard heater, a sealed or a direct-vent gas fireplace. The home’s furnace may be able to heat the addition but you’ll have to have a heating contractor check to see if it has enough spare heating capacity. Heating from the furnace will also require running ductwork to the addition. If you are installing ductwork, keep it within the heated space, or in a heated and well-insulated closed crawl space. If you have extended your forced-air heating to a closed-in porch or addition, make sure the supply and return air ducting is properly sized and installed.