Pre-Christmas Painting Tips

Painting: Walls, Ceilings and Floors

Painting is not the chore it used to be. A professional look is now easier to achieve. Whatever your project, talk to the paint experts where you purchase your paint. They are a valuable resource.  If you are having a hard time visualizing the colour, inexpensive computer software programs can allow you to try out different colours. Or, there may be a decorating service where you buy your paint.

Selecting paints

There are two main types of paint depending on the thinners and binders used; water-based (or latex) and oil-based (or alkyd).

Water-based paints use water as a thinner. They are often called latex paints even though they don’t use real latex, since rubber is not used as a binder any more. Today synthetic latexes are used, most commonly acrylic or polyvinyl acetate. Paints with a high acrylic content tend to have a tougher skin and can perform almost as well as oil-based paints. Latex paints can be easily cleaned up with soap and water.

Oil-based paints use a solvent thinner. Despite the name, oil-based paints are usually not made with oil. Instead, most use polyester resins, called alkyds. Although alkyds may be more durable and achieve a higher gloss finish, they are usually a less healthy choice than latex. Alkyd paints require mineral spirits for cleaning up.  Because paints are applied wet, and because they cover such a large area, paints can create a significant health problem during a renovation project. The problem is mainly caused by alkyd or solvent-based paints. They give off a number of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) as the solvent evaporates after painting.

These VOCs can be a strong irritant and can add to air pollution. Once the paint has completely dried and formed a tough skin, the emission levels drop. However, some paints can emit odours at low levels for a long time.  Exposure to VOCs varies from person to person. Effects include coughing, headaches, dizziness, or more serious conditions. It is especially important for respiratory sufferers, those with allergies, asthma, and households with young children or pregnant women to avoid paints with VOCs.

Comparing the VOCs of one paint to another is not an easy task. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are helpful, but manufacturers don’t have to list components which make up one per cent or less of their product’s weight. This means that some toxic components may not show up on the MSDS. The only sure way to know what the paint contains is by asking the manufacturer to list trace compounds.  There are some paints on the market that are solvent and VOC free. Look for the key words: Low VOC, or better yet. No VOC.

Painting myth

Contrary to popular belief, you can paint over oil or alkyd paint with latex paint.  To do so the walls should be cleaned, painted with a super adherent acrylic primer, then latex paint can be applied.To test if the paint on the walls is oil or alkyd some stores carry inexpensive test kits, or you can use methyl hydrate (gas line anti-freeze) or non acetone based nail polish remover.  Apply a small quantity of one of these products to a pad and rub vigorously on the painted surface. If the surface remains shiny it is oil/alkyd; if the paint is stripped it is latex.

Types of paint

It can be confusing when selecting the sheen of paint you want since the term used for the sheen varies by manufacturer.

Low-sheen (low-gloss) paints have none to little observable sheen. The amount varies slightly by manufacturer. Low-sheen paints can be called: flat, matt, eggshell, satin and velvetHigher sheen paints are semi-gloss, gloss and enamel. They have the most visible shine to them.  Low-sheen paints can be washed, but with care, higher sheen paints are the most washable and have the most durable finishes.  Most people select semi-gloss or high-gloss paints for rooms with high moisture levels such as kitchens and bathrooms, and high traffic areas such as main stairways and halls. Most people prefer to use semi-gloss or high-gloss paint on windows, trim and doors.  Bedrooms, dining and living rooms are more commonly painted with lower sheen paints.  Years ago, enamel meant oil-based paints.  Today the term enamel can also mean durable latex paint.

Sealers are primarily used on new wood or masonry surfaces. They seal the surface of the material, forming a base coat which keeps the topcoat from being absorbed unevenly. They can be used to encapsulate materials to seal in gases thus preventing them from offgassing.  Primers are used to make the substrate more uniform, and to create a tight bond between the topcoat and the surface to be painted.

Cementious or masonry paints are used on concrete walls and floors.  Ceiling paints are designed not to drip.  Melamine paints are used for cabinets and shelves, and are very durable and washable.

Choosing paint by the brand is not enough. Many brand manufacturers make higher and lower quality lines of paint. As you move up in quality so does the price. Each grade is usually a few dollars more expensive than the previous grade. Avoid mixing the brands by using the primer of one brand with the finish paint of another. Paint will adhere better if you use the same brand for both applications.  If you buy all the paint you need at one time you have a better chance of getting a uniform colour.

Brushes and other tools

Ensure the rollers and paint brushes you buy are rated for the type of paint you are using. Better quality brushes help ensure that the paint strokes are less visible.

Estimating how much paint you will need

Measure the height and width of each wall to be painted then multiply to obtain the square footage.  For rooms with lots of windows and doors deduct the square footage of the windows and doors.  A 4-litre (1 gallon) pail of paint will usually cover 37 square metres (400 square feet).  When calculating how much paint to buy, check how well it is expected to cover the surface to be painted. This is called hiding quality. Painting over very dark colours may require using primer as the first coat or more coats of paint.  Having the primer tinted the same colour as the finish coat can provide better hiding qualities.  Latex based paints should not be stored for extended periods of time as they can go bad. When buying paint look for the most current date of manufacture on the container.

Getting ready

Preparation is the most important and most time consuming part of painting. Usually at least 80 per cent of the time spent on a painting project is spent getting ready and cleaning up.

  1. Assess the surface that requires painting for needed repairs. Popped nails in the drywall or wallboard can be corrected by screwing a new screw into the stud either two inches above or below the popped nail. The popped nail can then be nailed in and the holes filled with wallboard or spackling compound. Make the patch on the hole as smooth as possible to minimize sanding. Wear a mask while sanding using no. 100 or no. 120 grit sandpaper if using wall repair compound and no. 220 grit for spackling compound.
  2. For larger holes the compound may need to be applied in layers. Each layer should dry before the next one is applied. To help the compound bond to the drywall, apply a layer of glass fibre (mesh) tape. It comes in a roll similar to cellophane tape.
  3. Vacuum the whole room and damp mop the floor if possible. Wash the surface to be painted with mild detergent and water. If there are grease marks on the walls, or if someone in the household smokes, you may first need to clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). If using TSP, be aware that it is not a benign product, and should only be used while wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse well with clean water.
  4. For very textured walls or ceilings, vacuuming may be the only pre-cleaning option.

Painting new drywall or wood

Previously unpainted drywall, or plaster must be primed. Previously unpainted wood can be stained, painted or urethaned.

Special considerations

Lead in paint

Lead in interior paint was taken off the market in 1979. Paint in houses or apartments built before that date almost certainly contain small amounts of lead paint.  Exposure to large amounts of lead can cause serious illness. Infants and children are especially vulnerable to lead. However, lead paint is not generally a problem if it is not flaking, peeling or blistering.To check if the walls contain lead, you can obtain a lead paint test kit at most major hardware and some health food stores.  Sanding or heat stripping lead paint requires safety precautions, including protective clothing, a mask, goggles and gloves. Lead paint in the form of sanded particles are a health hazard.  Pregnant women and children should never be exposed to dust or fumes caused during lead paint removal.  For further information on lead, order the free booklet Lead In Your Home from CMHC.

Covering water stains, marks and knot holes

Water stains on ceilings, wax crayon marks on walls and previously unpainted knot holes will bleed through most water based paints. A special stain blocking sealer should first be applied sparingly on the knots, stains or marks before applying the paint. For these special situations you may need to use shellac, alkyd or a polyvinyl acetate primer.  These products have an odour and therefore should be used only on the affected areas. When using these products ventilate well, preferably by running a fan. Place the fan in an open window and have the fan facing out.

Severely damaged walls

If walls are badly damaged, it may be quicker and cheaper to install an additional layer of new drywall.

Peeling paint

Peeling is usually a result of moisture under the paint, or of using the wrong type of paint. If moisture is the cause, it must first be corrected, then the surface can be scraped and sanded before painting.

Covering mold and water stains

Mold which appears as dark spots on the painted surface must be washed with soap and water, rinsed and dried before repainting. The cause of the moisture which resulted in mold, if not corrected, will allow the mold to come back.

Painting tips

  • Do not excessively thin paints as this decreases their wear resistance and washability.
  • If you use solvents of any kind, store the used solvents in an old paint container with a seal and take them to the toxic waste centre in your community. Do not pour solvents down the drain.
  • Always paint with a window open and when the temperature is above 10°C (50°F).
  • You can remove solvent based paint from your skin by using vegetable oil.
  • Smooth evenly painted walls are more readily achievable if you:
    1. Sand really well after patching.
    2. Use a roller which you have taken a lint brush to, before using.
    3. Use a roller designated for the type of paint you are using.
    4. Clean the surface to be painted thoroughly after sanding.

Gold Seal digs new Digs!

From left: Lt. Darryl Nielsen(CFD), Ken Schraeder (Zytech), Nathan Cooper (Town Council), Murray Pound (GSH), Kevin Price (Uponor), Mayor Lance Colby

Gold Seal Homes had a sod turning ceremony last Thursday for its brand new office in the Havenfields community.  Gold Seal has operated out of its present location on Gough Road for 23 years.  Construction began on Friday with an expected completion date of April 30.  There will be a temporary relocation to our show home in Stonebridge Glen in January as the RONA store adjacent to the present location needs more space and is expanding into the Gold Seal office.

Representatives from Uponor, Zytech Building Systems, PinkWood, along with our Mayor, Town Council and the Carstairs Fire Department were on hand for the ceremonial sod turning.

The new office will have the look and design of a residential home, but will feature office space for all staff, and fitness gym and play area for staff/client’s children.  We are really excited about some new energy and water saving features that we have not yet implemented in previous homes.  This home will be a showcase for current and future technology available to the consumer.

The building will also feature innovative visual media technologies, including interactive displays, iPad touring, and proximity sensors that will inform the visitor of useful information from suppliers and manufacturers.  New safety features will also be incorporated to bolster the fire protection systems already available in all Gold Seal Homes.

Photo by Ian Triffin (Signcraft Digital)

Alberta forecast to be only province with increase in housing starts

Job and net migration growth fuel housing demand

By Mario Toneguzzi, Calgary Herald

Alberta will be the only province next year to buck the national trend for housing starts across the country.  According to an October 2011 Housing Forecast report released Tuesday by Altus Group, only Alberta is expected to see an increase in housing starts in 2012.  Subdued economic growth will take the “sizzle” out of Canadian housing starts in 2012 and deteriorating global economic conditions leading to lower Canadian growth expectations will constrain housing demand across the country, said the report.

“Based on recent data, the Canadian housing sector is performing at a very high level, with elevated housing starts, steady prices, and steady resale markets. Interest rates are also no longer expected to increase over the next year,” said Peter Norman, chief economist, Altus Group. “But at the same time a number of risk factors are emerging, especially deteriorating economic conditions and tighter mortgage rules. Canadians can expect lower levels of housing construction in most areas of the country next year.”

But the report said Alberta has seen job conditions and interprovincial migration rise sharply this year at the expense of Ontario and British Columbia, positively affecting housing demand next year.  Alberta will see housing starts in 2012 rise to 27,800 units from 24,881 this year. In 2010, there were 27,088 housing starts in the province.  Across Canada, housing starts will hit 192,000 units this year and dip to 181,600 units in 2012. There were 189,930 starts in 2010.

The Altus Group report said only Calgary and Edmonton, among major markets in Canada, will see a rise in housing starts next year. Calgary will jump to 9,400 units from 8,400 in 2011 while Edmonton will see a rise to 9,400 units as well from 8,900 this year.  In 2010, Calgary had 9,300 housing starts while Edmonton had 10,000.

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Installing a fireplace!

Careful planning, installation and proper maintenance are the keys to safe and effective fireplaces.

Installing or modifying any fireplace system is complicated. To achieve high-quality, safe performance from your fireplace, consider having your fireplace system professionally installed.

Do you need a permit?

Yes, permits are required for the installation or modification of any fireplace system, It is your responsibility to obtain a building permit before installing or modifying any solid-fuel-fired appliances, including factory-built fireplaces.

Factory-built fireplaces

Factory-built fireplaces and their installation shall conform to CAN/ULC-S610-M, Factory-Built Fireplaces. Factory-built fireplaces must be installed and used in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

NOTE: Factory-Built fireplaces that have decorative gas logs must have Canadian Gas Association or Canadian Standards Association certification.

Most factory-built fireplaces, sometimes referred to as “built-in fireplaces,” are designed for installation in a wall, with one or two sides of the firebox open for viewing.

These are also commonly known as “zero clearance” fireplaces. This term is misleading because it implies the fireplace doesn’t need clearances to combustible material.

Manufacturers’ instructions will refer to “framing spacers,” designed to ensure combustible material used in construction is a safe distance from the firebox.

WARNING: All components, including chimneys and fans, must carry labels indicating they were tested to be compatible with that particular firebox.

Never substitute a component that has not been specifically designed for the unit you are installing. You may create a fire hazard that places lives in jeopardy.

Site-built fireplaces

Site-built fireplaces are usually masonry or stone, supported by a non-combustible foundation. These fireplace installations must conform to the current edition of the Alberta Building Code and should only be constructed by a qualified tradesperson.

Free-standing fireplaces

Make sure you have at least 1,200mm (4ft.) of clearance between the open sides of a free-standing firebox and the wall (or any combustibles), and at least 900mm (3ft.) clearance around the closed sides of the firebox.

Clearances for the closed sides of the firebox may be reduced if tested and labelled heat shields are provided.

WARNING: A free-standing fireplace must not be connected to a chimney flue serving a gas or oil heating system, or to a chimney flue that serves another wood burning or coal-burning appliance.

Steel liners

Steel liners for fireplaces shall conform to CAN/ULC-S639M, Standard for Steel Liner Assemblies for Solid-Fuel Burning Masonry Fireplaces and shall be installed in accordance with the installation instructions in that standard.

Chimneys

Factory-built chimneys serving solid-fuel-burning appliances and their installation shall conform to CAN/ULC-S629-M, 650 degrees celsius Factory-Built Chimneys.

WARNING: The chimney for a factory-built fireplace must be specifically designed, tested and labeled for the particular unit.

Clearance to combustible material

Combustible material shall not be place on or near the face of a fireplace within 150mm of the fireplace opening, except that where the combustible material projects more than 38mm out from the face of the fireplace above the opening, the material shall be not less than 300mm above the top of the opening.

Metal exposed to the interior of a fireplace, such as the damper control mechanism, shall have at least a 50mm clearance from any combustible material on the face of the fireplace where the metal penetrates through the face.

The clearance of combustible material above heat circulating duct openings shall be at least

a) 300mm where the combustible material projects more than 38mm from the face; or

b) 150mm where projection is less than 38mm.

At least 100mm clearance shall be provided between the back and sides of a fireplace and combustible framing, except that a 50mm clearance is permitted where the fireplace is located in an exterior wall.

Hearth extension

Fireplaces shall have a non-combustible hearth extending at least 400mm in front of the fireplace opening and at least 200mm beyond each side of the opening.

Where the fire chamber floor is elevated more than 150mm above the hearth, the hearth dimension measured perpendicular to the fireplace opening shall be increased at least 50mm for an elevation above 150mm and not more than 300mm. For every 50mm in elevation above 300mm, an additional 25mm is also required.

Fireplace inserts

Fireplace inserts must be installed according to their respective listing requirements. Inserts must not be installed in factory-built fireplaces unless the listing specifically allows the combination.

Fireplace inserts and hearth-mounted stoves vented through the throat of a fireplace shall conform to ULC-S628, Fireplace Inserts.

The installation of fireplace inserts and hearth mounted stoves vented through the throat of the fireplace shall conform to CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid-Fuel Burning Appliances and Equipment.

Combustion Air

Site-built masonry fireplaces must follow procedures for providing adequate combustion air supply as prescribed under the current edition of the Alberta Building Code.

Factory-built fireplaces must have combustion air provided in accordance with manufacturers’ installation instructions.

NOTE: The throat of every fireplace shall be equipped with a metal damper large enough to cover the full area of the throat opening when the appliance is not operational.

Gas-burning fireplaces

Gas-burning fireplaces must be approved by an acceptable testing agency (e.g., Canadian Standards Association, Canadian Gas Association, Underwriters’ Laboratories of Canada, Intertek Testing Services, Warnock Hersey International or Omni Testing Laboratories).

Gas Permits

Gas permits are required to install or modify any gas-burning fireplace and for natural gas or propane log lighters installed in any wood-burning fireplace.

Carbon monoxide alarms

Carbon monoxide alarms shall be installed in every home containing a solid-fuel-burning appliance, as required int he current edition of the Alberta Building Code. The alarms are also recommended for existing homes.

Carbon Monoxide Safety

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is a poisonous gas. It is colorless, odourless and tasteless, and breathing CO can cause illness or death. CO is produced when a fuel, such as gasoline, natural gas, propane or wood, burns incompletely. Fuel-burning appliances, like furnaces and water heaters, can produce CO if they are not installed, used or maintained properly.

Maintaining fuel-burning appliances

You should have your fuel-burning appliances inspected by a qualified heating professional once a year. Between inspections, monitor your appliances and call a professional if:

  • the flame on your natural gas furnace, water heater or stove is yellow. The flame should be a clear blue with occasional yellow tips (some natural gas fireplaces may be designed to have yellow flames); or
  • you find cracks, holes, separations, rust, stains or carbon deposits on heating ducts or pipes.

Make sure your appliances get the proper ventilation they need:

  • Your chimney should be inspected and cleaned every year. Between inspections, make sure leaves, snow, ice and other debris do not block the chimney.
  • Each furnace, water heater, gas clothes dryer or other appliance must have a proper venting system.
  • Temporary gas space heaters or wood burning stoves and fireplaces must have a fresh-air supply. If there is no permanent duct, open a window when burning solid fuels or using temporary gas heaters.

Using appliances and machinery properly

  • Once you start your car, move it outside the garage and close the garage door. Never leave a vehicle running in the an enclosed space.
  • Use only properly designed and vented fuel-burning space heaters to heat any enclosed space.
  • Never use fuel-powered equipment such as barbecues, gas-powered lawnmowers, snow-blowers or chainsaws inside a confined space.

Carbon monoxide poisoning: Know the symptoms, and know what to do:

Symptoms of CO poisoning include:

  • headaches;
  • nausea;
  • drowsiness;
  • dizziness;
  • confusion; and
  • loss of co-ordination or judgement.

If you, another person, or a pet show symptoms of CO poisoning:

  • Leave the house immediately;
  • call 911 or the local fire department from a neighbour’s house. Tell emergency responders that you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning; and
  • do not go back into the house until the fire department says it’s safe.

Carbon monoxide alarms

Carbon monoxide (CO) alarms are a valuable safety tool. There are now CO alarm requirements for new homes, but they are recommended for all homes.

CO alarms are not a substitute for prevention.

Building code requirements

The current building code (which came into force September 2, 2007) requires CO alarms in new houses if there is a fuel-burning appliance (such as furnace or water heater) or an attached garage.

CO alarms are required in new condos/multi-family homes if the unit has a self-contained fuel-burning appliance or shares a wall or ceiling with a parking garage.

What to look for when buying carbon monoxide alarms

CO alarms must meet the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) standard. When you buy a CO alarm, make sure it is certified, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation, use and maintenance.

Where to install carbon monoxide alarms

The alarms should be installed in bedrooms or within five meters of bedroom doors. They may also be required in a service room the encloses a fuel-burning appliance which serves multi-family suites.

Carstairs Lions Christmas hamper program helps many

By Jennifer Isaac

The Carstairs Lions Club is collecting donations for Christmas hampers for needy families in the town and surrounding area.  “This is the 23rd year that we’ve distributed hampers to those less fortunate,” said Al Molnar, chairman of the program. “Our community has always been there to provide that helping hand and we’re counting on support once again.”

Last year, about 30 hampers were distributed in the Carstairs area, Molnar said.  “The community’s continued generosity toward this worthy cause is sincerely appreciated,” he added. Continue reading

Would you like Green, Safe & Quiet interior doors?

Gold Seal Homes has been offering semi-solid & solid core doors as a standard feature for over 10 years in our new homes.  The advantage has always been a straighter, heavier feeling door.  However there are other attributes that a home buyer should consider when specifying the door for their new home.  Masonite’s Safe ‘N Sound™ door is also safer and ‘greener’ than a typical hollow core door.  Continue reading

How to safely dispose of CFL bulbs

In January, we posted a blog on the proper disposal of broken CFL’s (compact flourescent Light bulbs)  One of our caring customers has brought further information to our attention.  We have revised our suggestions, so please read this carefully as it may save you or a family member from harm.

Flourescent light bulbs contain a small amount of mercury sealed within the glass tubing. When a fluorescent bulb breaks in your home, some of this mercury is released as mercury vapor. The broken bulb can continue to release mercury vapor until it is cleaned up and removed from the residence. To minimize exposure to mercury vapor, EPA recommends that residents follow the cleanup and disposal steps described below:

  • Have people and pets leave the room.
  • Do not inhale the dust from a broken bulb
  • Air out the room for 5-10 minutes by opening a window or door to the outdoor environment.
  • Shut off the central forced air heating/air-conditioning (H&AC) system, if you have one.
  • Collect materials needed to clean up broken bulbs.
  1. Rubber gloves
  2. dust pan and small broom
  3. garbage bag
  • Be thorough in collecting broken glass and visible powder.
  • Do not use a vacuum cleaner, as this could spread the mercury droplets
  • Place cleanup materials in a sealable container (gloves, dustpan and any other items that have come in contact with the mercury).
  • Promptly place all bulb debris and cleanup materials outdoors in a trash container or protected area until materials can be disposed of properly.

Be safe when using space heaters

 

Heating

In 2008, heating equipment was involved in an estimated 66,100 reported U.S. home structure fires, with associated losses of 480 civilian deaths, 1,660 civilian injuries, and $1.1 billion in direct property damage. These fires accounted for 17% of all reported home fires.

Facts & figures

Based on 2004-2008 annual averages:

  • Space heaters, whether portable or stationary, accounted for one-third (32%) of home heating fires and four out of five (82%) of home heating fire deaths. 
  • The leading factor contributing to home heating fires (25%) was failure to clean, principally creosote from solid-fueled heating equipment, primarily chimneys.
  • Placing things that can burn too close to heating equipment or placing heating equipment too close to things that can burn, such as upholstered furniture, clothing, mattress, or bedding, was the leading factor contributing to ignition in fatal home heating fires and accounted for more than half (52%) of home heating fire deaths.
  • Half (49%) of all home heating fires occurred in December, January and February.

Source: NFPA’s “Home Fires Involving Heating Equipment” report by John R. Hall, Jr., September 2010.

Also see: Fact sheet on home heating fires. (PDF, 61 KB)

 

Related: NFPA fact sheet on carbon monoxide poisoning.